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De-work and diversification of needs

Posted by 白水健寛 on

It has been a while.
This is a continuation of the last time.

Blue denim became a uniform for outsiders in the 1950s, and is said to have been banned from being worn at prestigious schools on the East Coast.
Even in its long history, the 1960s can be cited as one of the important turning points.

The first topic worth mentioning is overseas expansion.
Jeans began to be exported to Europe and Asia after the war, but in the 1960s, they brought about a major change in the clothing culture of each country.
Above all, it has a tremendous impact on the British youth generation.

©ACE CAFE LONDON

In the United Kingdom, where the rock and roll boom that emerged in the United States took off almost at the right time, from the end of the 1950s to the beginning of the 1960s, there was a lot of youth culture/street culture, led by the so-called rockers, who gathered in cafes along the road and enjoyed roadside motorcycle races. Culture blossomed, and jeans began to function as cultural icons that had nothing to do with their original role.

©Keystone/Getty Images

© Gavin Watson

In fact, jeans-type 5-pocket pants became one of the essential key items in youth culture such as mods and skins that followed.

Another notable topic is the expansion of variations that can respond to segmented lifestyles.
A wave of diversification surged into jeans, which until then had generally had a rugged straight silhouette, and there was a pressing need to expand variations to meet all kinds of needs, such as colored denim, different material specifications, slim fit and boot cut. rice field.

©David McLane/New York Daily News

The good old cowboy life, the wealthy urban upper class, and the rough youth generation in each country. I guess.

As an aside, it was around the beginning of the 1960s that denim pants that were pre-shrunk and pre-shrunk appeared, and the denim pants that had been called waisted overalls for many years were given the name "jeans" for the first time. It is said that it was around this time as well. (to be continued)

This time, we will introduce three standard models that symbolize such a turbulent period of jeans in chronological order.
The first one is zip fly color picket pants [488].

From the end of the 1950s to the beginning of the '60s, many brands released 5-pocket pants made of different materials such as picket and satin to dispel the crude image that had already taken root in blue jeans.
These color pants, based on off-white and white, were accepted by well-behaved students on the East Coast, and eventually became one of the key items in the Japanese ivy boom that began in Japan.

[488] is one of Fellowes' classic models that has been refined to fit the body shape of Japanese people, based on the slim-fit picket pants of the 1960s when jeans became established as casual wear.

The iconic detail work of jeans such as 5 pockets reinforced with rivets remains the same, but the fabric has been changed from blue denim to picket, and the front opening has been changed from a button fly to a zip fly, giving it a modern impression.

488

Price: 15,180yen
Size: 28,30,32,34,36
Material: 100% Cotton
Color: BEIGE, CHARCOAL, IVORY, NAVY, BLACK

The second one that follows is [466SW], whose design source is the so-called 66 model.

In the mid-'60s, when jeans became more popularized, and as the so-called 1966 turned out to be, various specification changes were made to further improve productivity.

The patch, which is the face of the brand, changed from leather to paper, and the stitching of the hip pocket changed from cotton thread to spun thread.

The denim fabric uses super long cotton from Mongolia for the warp and American cotton for the weft, and is dyed only with dark indigo, giving it a more bluish feel compared to its predecessor [521SW]. thoroughly reproduced. By tapering gently, we have achieved a silhouette that does not have the same habit as the original.

466SW

Price: 16,280yen
Size: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34,36(38,40: 18,480yen)
Material: 100% Cotton
Color: One Wash

The third and last one is [405SW] inspired by the so-called Z series, the predecessor of the zipper fly model, which was given an independent part number as a model for the eastern market in 1967.

In the early 1960s, the Z series, which was refined for the eastern market, was known as the world's first model to use pre-shrunk denim, with a slim fit tapered design that featured a zip fly as its initials. It is By redesigning the rise to be deeper, the hip pocket became vertically long, bringing a beautiful leg effect, and the exquisite slim fit that was not too tight quickly gained market share.

The patch is the leather specification before the revamp, while the hip pocket has been revamped from hidden rivets to bolt stitch, and the pocket stitch has been revamped from cotton thread to spun thread, recreating the design of the transition period when denim pants completely transitioned to jeans. As with the original model, the zip uses Talon 42 zip.

405SW

Price: 21,780yen
Size: 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36 (38, 40inch_Price: 23,980yen)
Material: 13.5oz original selvedge denim Cotton 100%
Color: Denim